Point Quobba, WA

Point Quobba lagoon is a snorkeller’s paradise.

We travelled to Carnarvon to stock up on supplies and then an hour and a half onto Point Quobba through desert, sparse scrubland and a dry salt lake, Lake Macleod. The camp area at Point Quobba is run by the local council. Camp spots are not marked, you just find a space along the sand dunes and set up camp. There is no water, or power and all vans must be self sufficient as the toilet is only for use by day visitors but there are three dump points for chemical toilets. A host records visitors and takes camp fees for the council. There are a number of tin shacks here, some had people staying in them, others were falling down. We couldn’t work out why there were so many 4G towers are in the area, but were delighted to have the best internet and phone reception we have had anywhere. There are warnings everywhere that king waves kill: they must have had quite a few fatalities in the area. We left the van hitched to the car as there is nowhere far to go once you’re there.

No where that is except the blow holes, which are 1 kilometre up the road, an easy bike ride. Quobba Station, a sheep station established in 1898, leased this land, but in 2015 when their lease was up for renewal the government excised land along the world heritage Ningaloo Coast for conservation and tourism, which included the blow holes.

The beach was 100 metres from us and we spent most of every day snorkelling, then sat and watched the sunsets in the evening.

Point Quobba lagoon is between the beach and a small island, at one end a natural rock wall (thick with oysters) runs the short distance between the island and mainland. Most of the lagoon is quite shallow at low tide, but has lots of fish. A small  area near the rock wall is what they call the ‘aquarium’. We haven’t seen so many tropical fish since we were at Port Douglas on the outer barrier reef. It was amazing. Apparently the warm Leeuwin Current brings them here.  On the other side of the rock wall the surf breaks and there is a small gap in wall where the water rushes in with such a strong current that its impossible to swim against it. We had lots of fun swimming out to the side of the gap, then into the current and being carried half way across the lagoon.

Heading north now to Coral Bay; let’s hope the snorkelling is as good there. I must admit I am looking forward to being able to shower and wash my hair.

Cheers for now, Helen and Tim.