From Chillagoe we travelled to Undara Lava Tubes, first travelling south east toward the coast, then south west in a V shape (There is a more direct route not suitable for caravans). Thus the countryside varied dramatically through out the day. We drove through a mountain range, rainforest, tablelands and past wind farms. Cattle were always a hazard, even in the towns.
From Cooktown we travelled 403km south west across the Great Dividing Range, through the Atherton Tablelands and west to Chillagoe.
Cooktown is a beautiful place. The road from Cairns to Cooktown is sealed, the best road we have travelled on for a long while. We expected to drive through rainforest but the soil was very rocky and the vegetation sparse and dry.
From Charters Towers our first overnight stop was Townsville (a quick eye check up at the hospital), then north along the coast through banana plantations and sugarcane fields. Cane harvesting is almost over but cane trains and tractors were still working, loaded high heading to the mills.
Leaving Carnarvon Gorge we headed north, our ultimate aim being Cooktown 1,500km away.
Our first stop was Lake Maraboon/Fairbairn Dam, just overnight for a rest and to give us an opportunity to get the growing mound of washing done. I am still not driving post retinal surgery due to some slight double vision, so Tim is having to do it all.
Lake Maraboon/Fairbairn Dam. Fairbairn Dam is located 25 kilometres southwest of Emerald, in Central Queensland, almost on top of the Tropic of Capricorn line. Fairbairn Dam was constructed in 1972 across the Nogoa River “Gap” creating Lake Maraboon and is Queensland’s second largest lake. Maraboon is the Aboriginal for “where the black ducks fly”.
Regularly stocked with fish, it is a fisherman’s paradise, especially renown for catching ‘red claw’ a fresh water lobster. We stayed at Lake Maraboon Holiday Village on the banks of the lake and recommend it as a very well managed park, clean, well laid out and the staff are very friendly and helpful. All types of water sports are catered for and they hire boats and kayaks. It also has the most novel dump point we have ever seen. Due to the drought the lake is only half full but still looked massive.
We left Brisbane on 8th of September for Cooktown. Having done the coast road on our first trip north we headed west to take the inland road north from Roma. A three year drought has made inland Queensland a dust bowl, but it is still a beautiful area.
Our first over night stop was at Bowenville Reserve, a free camp on the bank of the Oakey Creek. Local councils provide free camps for caravans near small towns (particularly those bypassed by highways) as a means of injecting revenue into the towns. Most grey nomads are retired and most take along their dog. Caravan parks can be expensive and not many are dog friendly so they head to free camps. The nearby town provides a place to get provisions; petrol, groceries, fresh food, fishing tackle, post office, newsagent etc. and a chat with the locals who are always happy to talk about the history of the area. We find the free camps much more relaxed and quiet than caravan parks, and more spacious so we can leave the van hitched to the car, which is convenient when staying overnight. The councils often provide a toilet, but no other amenities. No drinking water, power, or anything else so being self contained is important.
Bowenville Reserve, has a small boat ramp for tinnies and kayaks. Lots of people had kayaks with them.
We are on the road again!
Summary thus far.
Left Melbourne boxing day 2014.
Travelled north, following HIghway One along the east coast until reaching Cape Tribulation at the end of May.
Headed back to Cairns via Port Douglas to get on the bitumen road to Cook Town (there is a dirt road from Cape Tribulation to Cooktown, but our van is too low for creek crossings)
It was timely that we did our Great Barrier Reef snorkelling trip at Port Douglas when we did because, shortly afterwards, THe Big Lap took an unexpected detour southward.
The day we got back to Cairns from Port Douglas, Helen was diagnosed with a detached retina by the excellent staff at Cairns Base Hospital’s Emergency and Ophthalmology departments. We flew to Brisbane the next day and Helen had surgery that evening.
Fortunately it was detected and repaired when it was “only” partially detached and so far the results are encouraging; unfortunately the recovery is slow and not conducive to travel or significant activity. We will be in and around Brisbane for the next couple of months, expecting to resume THe Big Lap in early September. Meanwhile, with the whale watching season now here, we hope to bring you some blowing and breaching from the lookouts at Byron Bay and Stradbroke Island.
Regards,
-Tim & Helen.
Arriving from Cape Tribulation late morning, Helen and I discovered it was the final day of a food festival and that today was Seafood Day. Stalls were set up along the marina wharf, operated by local restaurants etc. We were in time for a late lunch of salt & pepper calamari and marinara pizza. For dinner, we bought cooked prawns at the seafood market to end an altogether fishy day.
From Cairns we headed north past fields of sugar cane until we came to the Daintree River. The car ferry is the only way to get to Cape Tribulation on sealed road. Crossing the Daintree River was like entering an ancient world. The mountains and dense tropical rain forest tumble down mountains and spill onto sandy shore lines often reaching out to touch the coral sea. Although we have travelled through the wet tropics of North Queensland for some weeks now, we were quite unprepared for the wonderfully unique world of the Daintree Rainforest. I don’t believe our photos can possibly convey how truly breathtaking this place is.
